Before we came to India I had heard on numerous occasions that you either love or hate it. So far I feel like I have hated and loved it at the same time. I have hated the constant gridlock in traffic, but loved the chaotic way transportation really works. I have hated that there are people everywhere, but loved that there is always something to look at. I have hated the smell of bad body odor, urine, garbage and cow poop, but I love the smell of unknown spices, food and herbs. I have hated taunts and some people treating you horribly, but loved genuinely nice people who come up to you for a friendly conversation (which happens much more than expected). I have hated not having my comfort food available (real cheese, macaroni, and meatballs), but I am loving the Indian cuisine. Finally, I hate being in a place where I do not fit in and feel completely lost, but I love that I am in a place where I do not fit in and feel completely lost.
Our fist train ride in India was a big experience in itself. We jumped on board a 3-tier AC sleeper from Kolkata to Varanasi. The first thing that hit me was the chaos on the train. Only Indians in sight, and how everybody made the train their home within seconds was fun to watch. The train was quite comfortable, and the trip would have been perfect if not for two things. First of all, the train that was supposed to be very punctual ended up being over 2 hours late. Secondly, every time the train stopped, everybody seemed to get off, and new people filled their seats. This made it difficult to sleep because the people that got on did not exactly try to be quiet, even though it was the middle of the night. People kept making a ruckus all through the ride and did not quiet down until we reached Varanasi and we caught a glimpse of the Ganges. Then everybody just got quiet and stared at the river in awe.
Varanasi is the hottest place we have ever been. The auto rickshaw driver told us that we had arrived on the hottest day of the year. The thermometer was showing 46,6 degrees Celsius. Regardless of this, we checked into a room in a brand new guest house with no Air Conditioning. This has led to 5 days without being in any air conditioned room at all. Hopefully we will get used to it as the trip progresses.
Varanasi is the dirtiest place we have ever been. We were staying in the old part of Varanasi, and walking the streets felt like taking a trip back in time. Narrow, dirty, but charming streets are lined with vendors, small restaurants and garbage. There are monkeys and dogs around every corner, colourful people screaming, spitting and burping everywhere and people on motorbikes and bikes screaming at everybody to move out of the way. One thing does get everybody to move out of the way. The Cow. It is difficult to imagine how many cows there actually are on the narrow streets of Varanasi. They are literally everywhere, and they seem to know that they are the boss. They charge down stairs and narrow alleyways, sit on heavy trafficked roads, and swim in the Ganges. People and traffic always move out of the way of the holy creatures of India. They also seemed to know that they were the boss of us as they whipped us with their tail, pooped every time we walked by and peed so our feet got wet.
Varanasi is a holy place for the Indians. It is special in the way that it is built right on the bank of the Ganges. All along the riverside there are stairs (here called ghats) leading down to the river. Here people sit and contemplate, try to get foreigners to take a boat rides with them, perform colourful Hindu rituals, or take a dip. Swimming in the Ganges is supposed to heal you in many different ways which to us seems unlikely especially if you consider the burning ghats. At these ghats you cremate deceased and let the ashes drift away with the river. Keep in mind that people are swimming right next to these ghats.
Varanasi is the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world and on the last day we finally got close to the Ganges. We did not jump in, but we paddled down the river in a boat. At least I dared to dip a few fingers in it. We went all the way to the edge of the city where there is and old fort. From there we saw the sun set over Varanasi. It was one of the prettiest sunsets I have ever seen. Regardless of the heat and the frustration we have felt over the last few days, we are so glad we came to Varanasi.
Varanasi is one of the most unique places we have ever been.
Before we came to India I had heard on numerous occasions that you either love or hate it. So far I feel like I have hated and loved it at the same time. I have hated the constant gridlock in traffic, but loved the chaotic way transportation really works. I have hated that there are people everywhere, but loved that there is always something to look at. I have hated the smell of bad body odor, urine, garbage and cow poop, but I love the smell of unknown spices, food and herbs. I have hated taunts and some people treating you horribly, but loved genuinely nice people who come up to you for a friendly conversation (which happens much more than expected). I have hated not having my comfort food available (real cheese, macaroni, and meatballs), but I am loving the Indian cuisine. Finally, I hate being in a place where I do not fit in and feel completely lost, but I love that I am in a place where I do not fit in and feel completely lost.
Our fist train ride in India was a big experience in itself. We jumped on board a 3-tier AC sleeper from Kolkata to Varanasi. The first thing that hit me was the chaos on the train. Only Indians in sight, and how everybody made the train their home within seconds was fun to watch. The train was quite comfortable, and the trip would have been perfect if not for two things. First of all, the train that was supposed to be very punctual ended up being over 2 hours late. Secondly, every time the train stopped, everybody seemed to get off, and new people filled their seats. This made it difficult to sleep because the people that got on did not exactly try to be quiet, even though it was the middle of the night. People kept making a ruckus all through the ride and did not quiet down until we reached Varanasi and we caught a glimpse of the Ganges. Then everybody just got quiet and stared at the river in awe.
Varanasi is the hottest place we have ever been. The auto rickshaw driver told us that we had arrived on the hottest day of the year. The thermometer was showing 46,6 degrees Celsius. Regardless of this, we checked into a room in a brand new guest house with no Air Conditioning. This has led to 5 days without being in any air conditioned room at all. Hopefully we will get used to it as the trip progresses.
Varanasi is the dirtiest place we have ever been. We were staying in the old part of Varanasi, and walking the streets felt like taking a trip back in time. Narrow, dirty, but charming streets are lined with vendors, small restaurants and garbage. There are monkeys and dogs around every corner, colourful people screaming, spitting and burping everywhere and people on motorbikes and bikes screaming at everybody to move out of the way. One thing does get everybody to move out of the way. The Cow. It is difficult to imagine how many cows there actually are on the narrow streets of Varanasi. They are literally everywhere, and they seem to know that they are the boss. They charge down stairs and narrow alleyways, sit on heavy trafficked roads, and swim in the Ganges. People and traffic always move out of the way of the holy creatures of India. They also seemed to know that they were the boss of us as they whipped us with their tail, pooped every time we walked by and peed so our feet got wet.
Varanasi is a holy place for the Indians. It is special in the way that it is built right on the bank of the Ganges. All along the riverside there are stairs (here called ghats) leading down to the river. Here people sit and contemplate, try to get foreigners to take a boat rides with them, perform colourful Hindu rituals, or take a dip. Swimming in the Ganges is supposed to heal you in many different ways which to us seems unlikely especially if you consider the burning ghats. At these ghats you cremate deceased and let the ashes drift away with the river. Keep in mind that people are swimming right next to these ghats.
Varanasi is the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world and on the last day we finally got close to the Ganges. We did not jump in, but we paddled down the river in a boat. At least I dared to dip a few fingers in it. We went all the way to the edge of the city where there is and old fort. From there we saw the sun set over Varanasi. It was one of the prettiest sunsets I have ever seen. Regardless of the heat and the frustration we have felt over the last few days, we are so glad we came to Varanasi.
Varanasi is one of the most unique places we have ever been.
Very fun with your I love & I hate :))
Loved your writing Tola! Do you hate to think that this is the fifth month of your adventure or are you ready for the next sixth month adventure? I encourage every emandtola.blog reader, who has not posted a comment, to write a comment now!!!! This part of their journey will soon be moving into another journey. Keep cool Em and Tola.
Always nice to read about your adventures, the highpoint of the week! It's all downhill after that :)
T and E,
When you get a moment look at Ruth Reno's journey blog. You gotta' see the baby taxi photo that Ruth posted from her trip to Bangladesh in December.
I am going on a safari this morning. Yup, my pink I-pod, Switchfoot and lions, tigers and bears............