Em & Tola's Travel Blog

Leaving Varanasi, Tola and I both felt ready for Agra. Varanasi is one of the most overwhelming places I have ever been, but by the time we left I felt like I had conquered the small alleys and touts. Our time in Varanasi was a time of learning and observing.

Agra felt very welcoming when we arrived, and during the first few minutes, Tola and I both felt that Agra was a lot more laid back than Varanasi. The people at our hotel were some of the nicest and hospitable people we have met so far, and we really enjoyed the historical sights of Agra.


Agra was a city where Tola and I felt relaxed, and the streets were easier to walk along compared to the crowded alleys of Varanasi. We also did our first real sight seeing that felt touristy, and Agra was a really nice place to ride around in an auto rickshaw and see the sights.



One day was spent seeing the smaller sights of Agra. We visited a tomb nicknamed the "Baby Taj," and it was a great first sight to see. The Baby Taj sits quietly along the Yamuna River of Agra, and it is a beautiful building with delicate details. After the Baby Taj, we went to another smaller tomb along the Yamuna River, and this was mostly a place to view another part of the river. The rivers in India are places where there is so much activity. It feels like one could spend hours observing the people washing clothes in the river, kids playing with their friends, and the cows walking through the waters slowly. After enjoying the river, we went to a park that was a great place to view the Taj Mahal from a distance. As we walked closer to the Taj Mahal, it almost felt like it was just the two of us and the beautiful Taj Mahal. Looking at the Taj Mahal in person was such a strange feeling for me because it is a building that I have seen in so many pictures (throughout my life), and now I was actually looking at it in person.




After spending the day exploring Agra, we ended the day by eating at a rooftop restaurant that overlooked Agra. The restaurant was also an amazing place to view the Taj Mahal at sunset. Our dinner view was probably one of the best views I have had while eating. Looking at the Taj Mahal, the people sitting on their rooftops, and the kites flying in the sky was incredible. I felt like I was in a dream land, and the sights surrounding were unforgettable. It was also enjoyable to watch the monkeys sitting on the roof tops of buildings, and at one point one of the waitors came out with what looked like a pellet gun. Everyone sitting at the restaurant looked a bit startled as the waitor starting pointing his gun at the monkeys, but he informed us all that we had no need to worry. Apparantely the monkeys occasionally decide to visit the restaurant and they take food and sometimes cameras. The waitor was shooting little green peas at them, so they would go away and wouldn't bother the customers. Tola and I definitely experience new things in India every day. :)




On the morning of our last day in Agra Tola and I woke up early to go to the Taj Mahal. The two of us were quite tired, but we cleared the sleep from our eyes and made our way to one of the most famous buildings in the world.


The Taj Mahal is one of the most beautiful buildings I have ever seen. The details of the building are beautiful, and as the sun rises and hits the building, it almost glitters in the light. As I walked closer to the Taj Mahal I became more impressed because the details became more noticeable and pristine. Tola and I enjoyed sitting on a bench near the Taj Mahal, and we observed the beautiful building and all of the tourists from all over the world.



After the Taj Mahal, our time in Agra felt complete. It was then time to pack our bags again and get ready for our next destination. As we left our hotel, an older man who seemed to be the grandfather figure of the hotel left us with some kind words to remember. He told us to bring India with us in our hearts and remember it forever, he also told us to return again to his home country. As his words entered our minds, we stepped into an auto rickshaw and headed to the Agra train station. Sitting in the rickshaw I felt like I began to notice everything in a different light as we drove along the dusty roads. The children smiled brightly as they played with their friends, and the horns of the cars seemed to be the music of the city.


Our next train ride will take us to Delhi for a couple of days. Tola and I are both looking forward to meeting up with our friend Phoenix. We know Phoenix from Korea, and it will be fun to see him during his holiday in India (he is from India).

Before we came to India I had heard on numerous occasions that you either love or hate it. So far I feel like I have hated and loved it at the same time. I have hated the constant gridlock in traffic, but loved the chaotic way transportation really works. I have hated that there are people everywhere, but loved that there is always something to look at. I have hated the smell of bad body odor, urine, garbage and cow poop, but I love the smell of unknown spices, food and herbs. I have hated taunts and some people treating you horribly, but loved genuinely nice people who come up to you for a friendly conversation (which happens much more than expected). I have hated not having my comfort food available (real cheese, macaroni, and meatballs), but I am loving the Indian cuisine. Finally, I hate being in a place where I do not fit in and feel completely lost, but I love that I am in a place where I do not fit in and feel completely lost.

Our fist train ride in India was a big experience in itself. We jumped on board a 3-tier AC sleeper from Kolkata to Varanasi. The first thing that hit me was the chaos on the train. Only Indians in sight, and how everybody made the train their home within seconds was fun to watch. The train was quite comfortable, and the trip would have been perfect if not for two things. First of all, the train that was supposed to be very punctual ended up being over 2 hours late. Secondly, every time the train stopped, everybody seemed to get off, and new people filled their seats. This made it difficult to sleep because the people that got on did not exactly try to be quiet, even though it was the middle of the night. People kept making a ruckus all through the ride and did not quiet down until we reached Varanasi and we caught a glimpse of the Ganges. Then everybody just got quiet and stared at the river in awe.

Varanasi is the hottest place we have ever been. The auto rickshaw driver told us that we had arrived on the hottest day of the year. The thermometer was showing 46,6 degrees Celsius. Regardless of this, we checked into a room in a brand new guest house with no Air Conditioning. This has led to 5 days without being in any air conditioned room at all. Hopefully we will get used to it as the trip progresses.

Varanasi is the dirtiest place we have ever been. We were staying in the old part of Varanasi, and walking the streets felt like taking a trip back in time. Narrow, dirty, but charming streets are lined with vendors, small restaurants and garbage. There are monkeys and dogs around every corner, colourful people screaming, spitting and burping everywhere and people on motorbikes and bikes screaming at everybody to move out of the way. One thing does get everybody to move out of the way. The Cow. It is difficult to imagine how many cows there actually are on the narrow streets of Varanasi. They are literally everywhere, and they seem to know that they are the boss. They charge down stairs and narrow alleyways, sit on heavy trafficked roads, and swim in the Ganges. People and traffic always move out of the way of the holy creatures of India. They also seemed to know that they were the boss of us as they whipped us with their tail, pooped every time we walked by and peed so our feet got wet.


Varanasi is a holy place for the Indians. It is special in the way that it is built right on the bank of the Ganges. All along the riverside there are stairs (here called ghats) leading down to the river. Here people sit and contemplate, try to get foreigners to take a boat rides with them, perform colourful Hindu rituals, or take a dip. Swimming in the Ganges is supposed to heal you in many different ways which to us seems unlikely especially if you consider the burning ghats. At these ghats you cremate deceased and let the ashes drift away with the river. Keep in mind that people are swimming right next to these ghats.



Varanasi is the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world and on the last day we finally got close to the Ganges. We did not jump in, but we paddled down the river in a boat. At least I dared to dip a few fingers in it. We went all the way to the edge of the city where there is and old fort. From there we saw the sun set over Varanasi. It was one of the prettiest sunsets I have ever seen. Regardless of the heat and the frustration we have felt over the last few days, we are so glad we came to Varanasi.


Varanasi is one of the most unique places we have ever been.

Southeast Asia feels like a moist piece of chocolate cake compared to India. India is more like my favorite Korean dish kimchi chigae. Kimchi chigae is spicy, boiling hot, it contains diverse ingredients (tofu, red paste, kimchi, and other little green things), but there is still something that I really like about its extreme flavor. So far this is how I feel about India.

I don't know if Tola and I were really prepared for India (I don't know if anyone can be at first) after a good amount of time in East Asia and then four months in Southeast Asia; however, we boarded the plane with colds and all. I felt tired and weary at first, but as we sat on the airplane, a new excitement grew inside of me.

Stepping off the airplane was like stepping into a completely new world. Right away we found a taxi to take us to the city and we were off. Our taxi ride into Kolkata was literally a warm welcome, and as I noticed sweat pouring down our taxi driver's face, I wondered if he was nervous because of the traffic or if he was hot because it was steaming hot. I would have to say that our first taxi ride in India was the craziest taxi ride I have ever experienced. In Kolkata cars practically touch each other, and our taxi driver weaved in and out and between everything. The entire experience was quite exhilarating, and I became even more excited and curious about the new land we were in. Loud Indian music even played as we made our way through the congested streets of Kolkata.

Our days in Kolkata felt a bit overwhelming. Maybe it was the crowded streets, the new people, or the fact that Tola and I were both recovering from being sick. I think the combination of everything allowed for mixed feelings as we explored the new streets of Kolkata. At the same time everything became extremely exciting, and I have never been to a place where there is so much to look at. Thankfully Tola steered me away from the busy streets (and traffic) because I found myself constantly getting distracted by everything.

At first it felt like stepping out of our guest house was a big step. Inside the walls, I felt protected, but I knew anything could happen once we stepped onto the streets. I eventually became more comfortable with the sounds of the city, and by the end of our time in Kolkata, I wanted to go outside because I was curious.

During our time in Kolkata we spent a lot of time wandering the streets. Walking the streets became quite enjoyable because there was so much to take in. There were thousands of street vendors, public urinals on the side walk, and hundreds of black birds diving everywhere (oh and much much more). We also learned quickly that we had to be careful of where we stepped.

On our first full day in Kolkata we went out for a bit of exploring. We bought our first train tickets in India, and walked a few kilometers throughout the city. Immediately we noticed that cricket is India's favorite sport, cars don't stop for anything, and Indians like to ask a lot of questions. It was a fun first day, and we also had some good Western Bengali food.

Every morning in Kolkata we woke up to loud honking, people shouting in the streets, and numerous other noises I didn't recognize. The streets of Kolkata are a perfect morning alarm, and a taste of what is waiting outside. On our second full day we decided to try and take charge of things and find our way through the city by public transportation. We became excited as we found ourselves on a metro again, and Tola and I were both shocked because we didn't notice any females on the underground metro. After a good look we suddenly realized that there were females, but women in India have reserved seats and men and women sit separately. I was happy that I hadn't sat down amongst the men on accident because I am sure I would have gotten a lot of strange looks.

The metro took us to another part of the city that felt completely different from our guesthouse area. We began searching for a famous Hindu Temple, but we didn't have to look far because two Indians practically took us by our arms and led us to the temple. Stepping onto the temple grounds was a complete shock. There were people everywhere, and I didn't really know what was going on. One man told us he was a local priest, and he showed us around and explained some things about the temple. It was nice to get a guided tour, but I had a hard time paying attention because I didn't know where to look.

As we left the temple we came upon the house that Mother Theresa used to live in. Her house is also a hospital, and she used it as a place to care for the sick. Seeing Mother Theresa's house for the poor was a very special experience, and it was moving to see that her work is still carried on today. Tola and I ended up accidently walking into the hospital because we didn't really realize it was still used today. The few minutes we spent outside of Mother Theresa's old home were quite memorable, and it was probably my favorite experience from Kolkata. It amazes me how one little women took care of so many people and she seemed to put everyone else first. I have read in a few places that Mother Theresa's work wasn't necessarily always a good thing because she didn't always have a sanitary working space. I find it difficult to believe that someone could really feel that way after visiting India even for a short period of time. Mother Theresa did what she felt was right, and I really admire the work that she did for so many people.

Throughout the rest of our time in Kolkata we explored more streets and we also visited the Victoria Memorial. The Victoria Memorial is a large building that was constructed in memory of Queen Victoria. It is a beautiful building that is surrounded by lovely grass lawns and a reflecting pool. It was a nice place to spend a couple of hours on a hot day in Kolkata, and it was interesting to learn more about the British rule in India.


Now it is time to go to Varanasi. We are going to take our first night train in India. Tola and I are both looking forward to trains in India as India's train system is one of the largest in the world, and it is also one of the biggest businesses in the world. I am also curious to see who we will meet on our 13 hour train ride. :)

After almost 4 months it became time to start our long trip out of South East Asia. It started by leaving Luang Prabang on a smaller boat going upstream on the Mekong. The views from the boat were amazing. Untouched forests, small villages, waving village children, gracing buffaloes, limestone cliffs, tree covered mountain tops, fishermen and a clear blue sky were some of the things I spotted from the Mekong. If you were lucky you could apparently see wild elephants in the jungle from the boat, but sadly we were not. Even in these surroundings we got bored quite quickly. The fact that Emily caught a fever did not help, so when we reached the small city of Pakbeng after 11 hours, we were ready to get off the boat.


The plan had been to just spend one night in Pakbeng and get back on the boat in the morning, but Emily still had a fever, so we decided to stay and rest up for one more day.

The next day we took the bull by the horns and did the second leg of the boat trip to the Thai border. This one was pretty much the same as the first one. It was supposed to be a few hours shorter, but it ended up being 11 hours as well. We reached the city of Huay Xai and we had to stay the night because the border was closed until the next day. At dinner we met an older American couple that have been sailing the world for 7 years. Emily and I both agreed that this is something we definitely could not do.

Early the next day we crossed the border into Thailand. To do that we jumped on a boat and just crossed the river to the other side. We hadn't crossed a border by boat before. We could immediately feel like we were back in Thailand and it felt strangely comfortable (even more so when you consider what is happening in the country right now). We did not see anything that pointed to a future civil war aside from the occasional red or yellow flag.

Once in Thailand we quickly got on a bus and 3 hours later we were in Chiang Rai. We found a room and rested up for yet another long trip the next day, one more 11 hour bus ride to Bangkok. When we got on the bus we were pleasantly surprised. There was a steward that went around serving drinks, we got wet towels, and lunch was included. We also had a TV that showed some new American movies. They were dubbed to Thai, but it was nonetheless a very comfortable bus. The ride itself turned out not to be very comfortable though. It turned out to be 13 hours and during the last few hours, the constant traveling had really begun to affect us. When we were finally back in Bangkok my dad picked us up and it did not take long to fall asleep at my dad's apartment.

The last full day we spent in Bangkok, we went to my uncle's restaurant for lunch. Apparently I had not seen him for close to 20 years. Their Vietnamese restaurant seemed to be doing well, and their special dipping sauce is quite famous. The meal we had was one of the best ones on the trip so far. By coincidence another of my uncles (the oldest one) came to the restaurant for a meal when we were there, and it was good to see some relatives I had not seen for a long, long time.

Driving around in Bangkok, we did not expect to find it as calm as we did. We did not see any kind of disturbance anywhere, aside from a man selling ski masks. People just seemed to be living their lives as they normally do. We have a feeling that the media has blown the whole situation out of proportion. My dad told me that even though there has been some incidences, the general population do not really seem to care that much.

The evening was spent with my uncle Bon, his wife, my dad and Beng. It was a good farewell to Thailand and this part of the trip.

When we went to the airport the next morning both Emily and I felt nervous and tense, like you do when you leave home for a different country. After 4 months, South East Asia has really been our home, and we will miss it.

Books read on the trip so far:
Freakonomics
The girl in the picture
Superfreakonomics
High Fidelity
The Beach
Holy Cow
How to be good